Contemporary Peruvian gastronomy: an analysis of the role of culinary brokers in the diversification of local cuisines and its influence in the international tourist experience

Submission note: A thesis submitted in total fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy to the Business School, College of Arts, Social Sciences and Commerce, La Trobe University, Bundoora.

In recent years, gastronomy has become a source for creating products that can provide destinations with a distinctive tool for promotion. Previous scholarship has identified as being crucial the involvement of local people in the development and management of gastronomy-related initiatives. However, little research has analysed the significance that locals bestow on their food, particularly the influence of notions of national identity, perceptions of role and negotiations of authenticity in the generation of gastronomic products. This study focuses on Peru, a country that uses gastronomy as a source for tourism promotion and also for economic and social development. A group of renowned chefs are credited with the opening of innovative restaurants in Peru that combine aspects of local culinary heritage with imported techniques. This study demonstrated that these individuals exhibited common characteristics including education or work experience abroad; and exposure to foreign culture. They were identified as ‘culinary brokers’, a term that refers to individuals that use their cosmopolitan knowledge to enhance intercultural understanding. Qualitative research was employed using a narrative inquiry approach to understand how culinary brokers attribute meanings to their own personal and professional activities. A case study approach was also used to examine stakeholders’ perspectives regarding local gastronomy; and to explore the growing interest of international tourists in Peruvian food. This study determined that the Peruvian culinary brokers had influenced local gastronomy through the development of diverse versions of local cuisines commonly used for tourism promotion. At their restaurants, particular aspects of local culinary culture are transformed into gastronomic products that appeal to both locals and international tourists. Despite changes, the culinary brokers used their identity as Peruvians to provide authority and endorse authenticity to their innovative creations. Significantly, the culinary brokers had also structured discourses directed to locals regarding the importance of sustainable gastronomic practices. This study contributes to the conceptualisation of the term culinary brokers and provides a profile for identification of these individuals. It also proposes a model for the level of influence of culinary brokers on the international tourists’ experience.